Friday, 3 April 2009


Organic wine and great Gallic food. We've waited some time for a culinary star to shine in Charing X. Admittedly a large step up from Bedford & Strand around the corner, and the flailing but wonderful Rules, the first surprise at Terroirs is the light open space (anyone remember the previous dark cavernous premises?), and the gregarious staff. My first visit comprised very little food, and far too much wine (£110 bill for two - ow), most of which we happily guzzled whilst trying not to stare at the lovely Sam and Sam Clark of Moro, who were being handed plates of delectable freebies by the chef.
Next visit, it's Gregg Wallace, holding court in the bar. I find it difficult to leave. Not star-struck - just kept in by the atmosphere and tapas-style food and exceptional charcuterie. The wine list has clearly been compiled thoughtfully, and may I mention their organic wines seem to result in zero hangover? Surely a reason for a visit in itself.

Most recent visit: my companion sliced open his thumb whilst enthusiastically cracking a Dorset crab claw which flew across the room - clearly bent on swift revenge - smacking him in the face on its way. Perhaps it was slightly mollified by our appreciation of its tender flesh, as it gave itself up in the end.

If the aged Gruyere is on the menu, snap it up. A revelation. Otherwise, boquerones and heart-stopping duck scratchings certainly won't disappoint.

Fabulous - thank you Terroirs!

And a year later, still on top form (beautiful pear and almond tart with clotted cream, pictured below). Terroirs have just opened a restaurant proper in the basement, and their website is up and running. How long before chef and partner in the business, Ed Wilson, writes a cookbook? Out next Spring, I bet.

Terroirs on Urbanspoon

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